Our journey through Rome was part of Virgin Voyages’ “Irresistible Med & Rome” itinerary, where Rome served as a highlight port of call. Knowing we had limited time, we were determined to experience as much of the city on foot as possible, exploring its cultural treasures independently. Here is our Rome for Cruise Guests Self-Guided Tour from Civitavecchia.
Firstly, Virgin Voyages’ does have a “Shore Thing” coach excursion to Rome; it is ultimately just the return coach to and from Civitavecchia to Rome, and had it been available when we booked, we would have gladly chosen it for the convenience and peace of mind. Unfortunately, by the time we booked, it was entirely sold out. So, we opted to go independent and take the train from Civitavecchia to Rome – a simple, affordable option at under €10 per person for a return trip via the Trenitalia app. It seemed straightforward on paper, but as we later discovered, independent touring brings its own set of challenges, especially when relying on public transport.
As you’ll see, our day in Rome was filled with unforgettable sites but ended with a close call back to the ship. We highly recommend any traveller planning a similar tour to have a contingency plan, leave plenty of extra time, and prepare for the unexpected.
Google and Apple Maps Links
I have made a list of all the destinations in both Apple and Google Maps; this was how we built the tour, we sat down over a coffee after the Colosseum, looked for local landmarks, and made a collection of the ones we wanted to visit. We often do this in when in port. If you click the links below all the places we visits will appear in a collection which you can use to help plan your day in Rome.
Walking Guide To Rome for Cruise Guests Apple Maps
I had mapped this out as a walking route in Apple Maps, but sadly, there is no way to share it at this time. Hopefully, this gives you a nice visual look at the route; as you can see, there are plenty of other sights near this route, so you could add and subtract any of these depending on what you want to see.
Walking Guide To Rome for Cruise Guests Google Maps
Here is the general walking route in Google Maps, which you should also be able to save to your Google Maps. Not all the landmarks are marked due to limitations on Google Maps and the number of stops you can have on any one trip. But you can interact with this version.
Getting the Train from Civitavecchia to Rome on a cruise.
Once we disembarked from Virgin Voyages’ Scarlet Lady in Civitavecchia, we found a local bus conveniently waiting to take passengers directly to the Civitavecchia train station. The bus cost us €6 per person each way, which is a bit pricey considering the price of the train to Rome, but it was a comfortable and efficient option. Just a tip: there are two types of buses here, so it’s important to ask which one goes directly to the train station. Some buses only take you to the port entrance, leaving you with a bit of a walk to reach the station.
Taxis are also available outside both the cruise terminal and the train station, though be prepared for a bit of enthusiasm from the drivers trying to secure fares. We found that taxis charged the same €6 per person, and were trying to get as many fares as possible, so the bus felt less cramped.
Once at the train station, you’ll find a small café and convenience store, perfect for picking up any snacks or drinks for the journey. We had 30 minutes to waste before our train, so we decided to take a short walk to the nearby beach. You can tell that this was once a popular beach resort that has seen better days; everything is very dated, so while you could kill a few hours here, it’s hardly a headline destination for cruise passengers.
The train from Civitavecchia to Rome takes about 50 minutes to an hour – a pleasant enough journey with a few countryside views. If you’re using the Trenitalia app, it offers the flexibility to adjust your ticket time on the day of travel, as long as it’s done before your train departs. This flexibility is a great option for cruise travellers who need to work around disembarkation times.
Our Rome Walking Tour: Stop by Stop
We knew before setting off on the train that we wanted to visit the Colosseum, so with that in mind, we set off for that first, with a plan to stop for a coffee nearby to work out the rest of the walking trip.
1. Termini Station & Parco del Colle Oppio – Arrived at 11:00 AM
From Termini Station, we embarked on our walking tour, heading first towards the Colosseum, opting to visit two parks we could see along the way, the first was Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, right next to Roma Termini, the second right next to the Colosseum was the tranquil Parco del Colle Oppio. These green spaces are an ideal introduction to Rome, with Parco del Colle Oppio offering a shaded, relaxed setting and a clear view of the Colosseum in the distance. It’s a peaceful spot and a perfect way to warm up for the day’s historical sights and break up the walk.
2. Colosseum – Arrived at 11:20 AM
The Colosseum needs no introduction; this ancient amphitheatre is an icon of Rome’s history and an architectural marvel. We chose to admire it from the outside to save time as the lines to get in were busy, and we only had a limited amount of time in Rome, but even this was impactful.
On this particular walking tour, we opted to maximise as many sights as we could, over choosing to spend a lot of time in any one place; you could cut out some of the stops for sure and spend more time exploring the Colosseum if you prefer.
Walking around its exterior, we glimpsed the grounds of the Roman Forum. A note for those following this route: despite what map apps may indicate, you can’t cut through the Forum grounds, so you’ll need to stick to the main road. The Colosseum is both impressive and humbling, giving a true sense of Rome’s historical grandeur.
We opted to get a coffee from one of the nearby cafes. However, I would advise against this and consider grabbing one at the next stop on this list. It was in a busy cafe on a small side street next to some construction work, so it was a bit of a fail on our part, but we needed to sit down and use the bathroom more, so needs must.
If you wanted to explore the Roman Forum, and many of the other sights in Rome, you could opt to purchase the Roma Pass, which is valid for a number of days, so it may not be the best value for money for cruise passengers, but Viator do have a number of options for skip the line passes that may help you maximise your time exploring Rome.
3. Vittoriano (Monument to Victor Emmanuel II) – Arrived at 1:00 PM
The Vittoriano, also known as the Altar of the Fatherland, was our main planned stop after the Colosseum and Trevi Fountain, so we decided to spend more time exploring its various levels.
We researched this monument beforehand, knowing it offered a unique rooftop terrace with panoramic views over Rome, including Vatican City and the distinctive dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. We paid around €12 per person to access the restricted areas, which included the upper viewing gallery and a museum dedicated to Italy’s wartime history, monarchy, and political unification. For history enthusiasts, this museum offers a fascinating dive into Italy’s past, though we focused primarily on the terrace for the views.
The Vittoriano also houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a significant memorial dedicated to Italy’s fallen soldiers. There’s a café here as well, and it would be a great spot to take a break with a view overlooking the Colosseum and Forum grounds – a better option than the small coffee shop we stopped at near the Colosseum, which was crowded and on a busy walkway. After a quick coffee, we took the lift up to the rooftop, where we were rewarded with an unparalleled view of Rome’s sprawling cityscape. It was certainly worth the visit and, in hindsight, was an excellent choice to prioritise.
4. Pantheon – Arrived at 2:00 PM
Our next destination was the Pantheon, which is a short 10-minute walk away, a remarkable ancient temple turned church. Known for its large dome and oculus, it’s one of the best-preserved monuments of ancient Rome. Unsurprisingly, the Pantheon was packed, and we recommend visiting early or late in the day to avoid the crowds. The site remains free to enter, making it a popular stop, which can be seen in these photos; it was next to impossible to get in and out quickly, so sadly, this was another venue that we had to do a running visit of.
From what we have been told, it’s best to try and enter as early in the day or as late in the day as possible, which is good advice for any popular tourist destination.
5. Piazza Sant’Ignazio & Angel on the Wall Statue – Arrived at 2:10 PM
After the Pantheon, we strolled through the Piazza Sant’Ignazio, one of many charming squares in Rome with a Baroque architectural style. On our way, we passed an angel statue, one of those surprise discoveries that make Rome such an enchanting city. Small details like this add character to every corner of the city, rewarding those who choose to explore on foot. I’ve not been able to find out much more about the sculpture, but it seems to be in memory of people who are listed on the walls on either side.
A vague Google Translate makes reference to a group who wanted to honour the memory of their workmates who fell in service to Italy, but I haven’t been able to work out more than that.
6. Coffee Break at Lucciano’s – Arrived at 2:21 PM
With a lot of ground still to cover, we took a well-deserved break at Lucciano’s, an ice cream parlour where I enjoyed a refreshing Dolce Leche coffee milkshake, and Phil had a Pistachio Affogato. I forgot to take any photos of the inside, but it was full of charm and had an incredible range of treats to try.
This stop was a much-needed recharge after our walk between landmarks, giving us a chance to recharge before tackling the last few afternoon sights.
7. Trevi Fountain – Arrived at 2:49 PM
The Trevi Fountain is perhaps one of Rome’s most famous attractions and was on our list before we arrived into Rome, but at the time of our visit, it was surrounded by scaffolding as part of the city’s renovations ahead of the 2025 Jubilee.
Rome is preparing many of its landmarks for this major event, which means heavy construction around several key sites. For the Trevi Fountain, this means limited access and visibility; the square itself is also incredibly tight, and the crowds make it challenging to get a clear view. So this perhaps had the bigger “Instagram versus reality” moment of all the places we visited in Rome.
Once renovations of the Trevi Fountain are complete, the new plans propose that visitors will be able to walk on a new raised platform over the fountain on a new Jubilee walkway, offering a closer perspective than ever before and a new perspective over the fountain that wasn’t possible previous, plus providing protection to the landmark that sees thousands of visitors a day.
8. Spanish Steps – Arrived at 3:05 PM
Our next stop was the Spanish Steps, another bustling area filled with tourists. The Steps are a great spot for people to watch and admire the surrounding architecture. Despite the crowd, it’s one of those iconic Roman landmarks that you can’t miss.
The bottom of the steps are located in a large piazza, so this could be a great spot to stop for a cafe or lunch break for those who have more time, or if you decided to end your trip here and not continue onto the remaining points we added onto our trip.
9. Piazza del Popolo – Arrived at 3:20 PM
The walk to Piazza del Popolo from the Spanish Steps took about 15 minutes, and, to be honest, fatigue was setting in by this point. The expansive piazza is home to beautiful fountains and statues, but we found ourselves running low on energy and motivation here, given the heat and the long day.
There is a nearby park that offers a more relaxing break from the city. However, we were at the point of our day where we had to start to make our way back to the train station.
We decided to make our way back to the station via the road that went via the top of the Spanish steps, which gave us a different perspective.
10. Piazza Barberini & Four Fountains – Arrived at 3:51 PM
As we made our way back towards Termini, we passed through Piazza Barberini and stopped to admire the Four Fountains. These smaller fountains, like the Fontana della Dea Siunone and Fontana del Tevere, are just some of the many beautiful sculptures scattered throughout Rome.
This stretch of our walk emphasised the blend of historical art and modern city life that defines Rome. Whilst none of these landmarks are headlines, they were a delight to see, and often, looking down a small side street would unveil another beautiful vista or sculpture. There really is something joyful about just wandering through Rome.
11. Castro Pretorio – Arrived at 4:18 PM
Our final stop was Castro Pretorio, where we grabbed a quick bite before returning to Termini Station. There are a number of quick food options and shops off the large piazza, and whilst none of them was a cultural highlight, it was essential for a quick refuel before the journey back.
We thought it may be better to get something to each here than head back to the station and pay the often inflated price for snacks at train stations.
Return to Termini Station – Arrived at 4:45 PM
We arrived back at Termini with what seemed like plenty of time to catch our train back to the port. However, the return journey quickly turned into a race against time as we encountered unexpected train delays and cancellations.
The Journey Back: A Cautionary Tale
What started as a straightforward plan quickly turned into a cascade of problems. Our original scheduled train was abruptly cancelled, so we boarded the next available train, hoping it would keep us on schedule. Unfortunately, this train was held up multiple times, stopping at several stations with delays that chipped away at our buffer.
Then, an announcement was made advising anyone needing to return to the cruise terminal to disembark and switch platforms for a direct train back to Civitavecchia. We, along with other passengers, followed these instructions and waited for the direct train. However, that train never arrived.
After waiting some time, we realised our options were dwindling, and we waited for the next scheduled train. But this train, too, was running late, and by this point, it became clear we were likely going to miss the ship if we didn’t find an alternative way back.
At this point, we decided to try for a taxi, thinking it was our only chance to make it back in time. Our first taxi, unfortunately, turned out to be an additional source of stress. Instead of heading towards us, the driver seemed to be moving further away from the station. Our guess is he accepted the long journey whilst on a drop-off with another customer, so what was originally a 5-minute collection turned into a 20-minute collection, meaning we would reach the ship at 8:10 pm.
As panic set in, we cancelled that taxi and quickly ordered an Uber Black, which turned out to be more reliable but came at a hefty cost of €260. It was a nerve-wracking ride, and we truly feared we might not make it back in time for the ship.
Thankfully, Virgin Voyages was in communication with passengers facing delays and assured us that they were holding the ship as long as possible due to the widespread train issues. By the time we arrived, there were over 300 sailors and 70 crew still stuck on the trains and in taxis, trying to make it back to the ship.
In any normal situation, would it have been just us running late back to the ship, there is never any guarantee that the ship would wait for us, so we made the call to get back to the ship as soon as we could.
Needless to say, we enjoyed our drink when we were back on board.
Reflections and Advice – Rome for Cruise Guests
This experience underscored the potential risks of independent touring when reliant on public transport. We would recommend always giving yourself at least double the travel time needed to get back to the ship if venturing more than 30 minutes away from the ship, also, ensure you have an emergency fund for alternative transport should you need it, i had £200 spare for an emergency taxi, which I’m glad i did given the outcome of this trip, as we would have been stranded if i didn’t have money set aside for a situation like this.
Also, consider the peace of mind offered by cruise-line excursions. While these excursions may come at a higher upfront cost, they ensure that the ship will either wait or arrange onward travel if issues arise.
Rome is an incredible city to explore, and I’m glad we took this walking tour. It was worth it to explore as many of the main sights as possible on foot without booking an expensive tour. However, as we learned, even with careful planning, the journey back can be unpredictable. For those following in our footsteps, we hope this serves as both inspiration and a gentle reminder of the importance of contingency plans, and why a cruise excursion may not be as expensive as they seem.