Quick answer: Skagway is two days in one. The big excursion is the White Pass, up into the snow and across into Canada by coach and the historic railway (take your passport). The rest is a gold-rush town you can explore on foot straight from the ship: the Red Onion Saloon, free national park sites, and the best shopping in Alaska for real local art. For gluten-free, we liked Glacial Coffeehouse.
It was May. We were on a coach. And the whole world had turned white.
We called at Skagway on our Virgin Voyages Brilliant Lady sailing in May 2026, our second visit after a Holland America cruise in May 2023. It’s a tiny gold-rush town that swells every summer with cruise passengers, and it’s one of our favourite ports anywhere. Here’s how we spent our day, what we’d book, and how to find the good stuff in town.
Getting from the ship into town
Skagway is about as easy as Alaska ports get. Ships dock at the end of town, and the main street, Broadway, starts a short, flat walk from the pier. Everything is close together, so you can be wandering the boardwalks within minutes of getting off.
If you’re on an excursion, the coaches and the White Pass trains leave from right by the docks, so there’s no transfer to worry about.
The White Pass: coach up, train down
This is Skagway’s big-ticket experience. The White Pass and Yukon Route railway was built during the Klondike gold rush to haul prospectors over the mountains, and today it climbs from sea level to the summit through some spectacular scenery.
We booked Virgin’s White Pass Railway and Red Onion Saloon Shore Thing. We were off the ship at about 9am, then up the Klondike Highway by coach. As we climbed, the fog rolled in, the snow got deeper, and our coats suddenly made a lot of sense. At the top it was a proper winter scene, in the middle of May.
The route crosses into Canada, and border officers came aboard to check every passport, so take yours. Then we came back down to Skagway on the train, with the valley opening up below us.
A few things worth knowing:
- The order varies. Ours was coach up and train down, but some departures go train up and coach down. There’s no wrong way round.
- Wear a coat, even in summer. It’s much colder at the summit than in town.
- Eat first. No food was included on ours.
- Prices vary by sailing. We paid about £175 each for the railway and Red Onion package in May 2026. Check the current price in the Shore Things section of the Sailor App.
Booking the White Pass independently
If you’d rather book direct, these summit tours run from Skagway by road and are well reviewed. Leave a good margin before all-aboard, as the border crossing can add time.
- White Pass summit guided bus tour into Canada (3 hours)
- Skagway city and White Pass summit tour (2.5 hours)
- Yukon Suspension Bridge and White Pass summit (3.5 hours)
- Yukon sled dogs and White Pass combination (4.5 hours)
Some of the tour links on this page are affiliate links. If you book through them we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.
The Red Onion Saloon
Back in town, the second half of our Shore Thing was the Red Onion Saloon, one of Skagway’s most famous buildings. In the gold-rush days it was a bar downstairs and a brothel upstairs, and the tour takes you up to the rooms.
Ours was led by a madam in full costume, who told the story from the stairs, and it started with a glass of champagne (included with Virgin). We were told the women chose their own wallpaper; the rest we’ll leave to her. On our visit the saloon even hung out a “Welcome Virgins!” banner, which was for our ship, honestly.
Virgin Voyages is adults-only, so it suits a Virgin crowd perfectly. If you’re sailing with another line and travelling with children, it’s probably not the tour for them, but anyone can pop into the bar downstairs for a look around and a bite to eat. The saloon runs its own tours too, so you don’t need an excursion to go up.
Lunch: gluten-free at Glacial Coffeehouse
After the train, we went to Glacial Coffeehouse for lunch. It’s a relaxed coffee shop, and the reason we’re mentioning it is that they did sandwiches on gluten-free bread, which isn’t a given in a small Alaska town. As always, tell them about your requirements when you order.
Travelling gluten-free? See all our gluten-free travel guides.
The free half of Skagway
A lot of Skagway’s best bits cost nothing. Much of the historic centre is part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, and its visitor centre on Broadway is the best place to start: it explains how tens of thousands of stampeders came through here on their way to the Yukon goldfields.
Then just walk. The wooden false-fronted buildings, boardwalks and old saloons along Broadway make the whole town feel like a film set, with the mountains closing in at the end of every street.
Shopping: our favourite Alaska port for real local art
If you love finding proper keepsakes, Skagway is the port for it. You’ll find good shops in Ketchikan and Juneau too, but Skagway seems to have more of them, packed into a few streets.
Look for:
- Alaska Native art, ethically sourced, from carvings to prints and jewellery. A good shop will proudly show the artist’s details on or near each piece.
- Work by local and regional artists inspired by Alaska’s scenery and wildlife.
- Handmade Christmas decorations. We pick up a tree ornament in every port, and Skagway’s are some of our favourites.
Be aware there’s more imported, mass-produced stock around than ever. We’re not knocking it, everyone needs a fridge magnet, but half the fun in Skagway is hunting past it for something made locally.
What to pack for Skagway
- Your passport, if you’re doing the White Pass.
- A warm coat, hat and gloves for the summit, even in summer.
- Comfortable shoes for the boardwalks.
- Room in your case for art and ornaments.
So, is Skagway worth it?
Absolutely. Do the White Pass if it’s your first visit, as snow at the summit was one of the highlights of our whole trip. Then give yourself time in town for the Red Onion, the national park and a proper hunt for local art. It’s a port that rewards a full day.
This was one stop on our Virgin Voyages Alaska trip, which started with two nights in Vancouver. The day before was scenic cruising at Hubbard Glacier, and the next day we were in Juneau: here’s our Juneau port guide. See also our guides to Ketchikan, Sitka and Icy Strait Point, our first-time guide to cruising Alaska and our full Virgin Voyages Alaska review.
FAQs
Is Skagway worth visiting on a cruise?
Yes. It’s one of the prettiest and easiest ports in Alaska: a gold-rush town of wooden fronts and boardwalks, right by the ship, with snowy mountains at the end of the main street.
Do you need a passport for the White Pass excursion?
Yes. The White Pass summit route crosses into Canada, and on our trip border officers came aboard to check every passport. Take yours with you.
Is it better to go up White Pass by train or by coach?
There’s no right way round. Ours went up by coach on the Klondike Highway and came back down on the train, but some departures do it the other way. Either way you get the summit and the railway.
Is the Red Onion Saloon family-friendly?
The tour tells the story of the building’s past as a gold-rush brothel, so we wouldn’t call it one for children. Anyone can pop into the bar downstairs for a look and a bite.
Where can you eat gluten-free in Skagway?
We had sandwiches on gluten-free bread at Glacial Coffeehouse. As always, tell them about your requirements when you order.
Is Skagway good for souvenirs?
It’s our favourite Alaska port for art and keepsakes. Look for Alaska Native art, work by regional artists and handmade Christmas decorations, rather than the mass-produced souvenirs.
Plan it with us
Phil and I are award-winning travel specialists and Virgin Voyages First Mates, and we’d love to help you plan your Alaska cruise. Book Virgin Voyages with us and you’ll get our bonus Sailor Loot as a thank you. Call 07307 602030, email hello@magical-traveller.com or get in touch.