The Best of Ketchikan, Alaska Without Booking a Tour

Ketchikan harbour and downtown with forested mountains behind

Quick answer: Ketchikan is one of the easiest Alaska cruise ports to do yourself. The cruise berths sit on the edge of downtown, so Creek Street, the totem poles, the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show and the best souvenir shops are all a short walk from the ship. You don’t need a big excursion, just comfy shoes, a waterproof and a rough plan.

On my last Alaska cruise, Ketchikan was my favourite port, so I was really excited to be back. We sailed in at about 5am on Virgin Voyages’ Brilliant Lady in May 2026. Jet lag had me up early enough to watch us come through the inlet, and honestly, I’ll take jet lag if it means seeing sail-ins like that.

What I love most about Ketchikan is that you barely need to leave the dockside to have a brilliant day. You don’t need a big, expensive excursion. You just need comfy shoes, a waterproof and a rough plan. Here’s exactly how we spent our day, and what I’d tell you to do if it’s your first time.

Watch our day in Ketchikan

Why Ketchikan is so easy to explore

I rate a port by how much you can do with a short walk off the ship, and Ketchikan wins hands down. The cruise berths sit right on the edge of downtown. The shops, Creek Street, the Lumberjack Show and the harbour are all a few minutes’ walk from the gangway.

It’s also a great mix of heritage. On one side you’ve got Ketchikan’s Indigenous culture, with artwork and totem poles all over town. On the other you’ve got its frontier, gold-rush-era past. Together they make up the rich history you find across Alaska, and you can see both without ever getting on a coach.

Our Ketchikan day at a glance:

  • Breakfast at a gluten-free-friendly crêperie
  • Totem poles and a riverside wander
  • Historic Creek Street and the Married Man’s Trail
  • Coffee at Local Grounds
  • Souvenir shopping on the waterfront
  • The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show

What about excursions?

If you arrive with nothing booked, don’t panic. The second the ship berths, you’ll find local excursion desks right on the quayside, and that’s true of pretty much every port in Alaska. For independent tours we usually use GetYourGuide, and we’ve had great experiences with them on other cruises.

For this sailing, though, we booked everything through Virgin Voyages. That’s the age-old trade-off with booking through the ship: if your itinerary changes or the ship arrives late (which has happened to us!), the cruise line rebooks or refunds you automatically. That peace of mind is worth a lot.

Breakfast: gluten-free crêpes in Alaska

Phil is gluten-free, so our port days are usually led by his stomach. A quick search turned up Alaska Crêpe Co, which is known for catering really well for gluten-free diners. We arrived before it opened (a theme this trip!) and waited 10 minutes.

It wasn’t the cheapest crêpe we’ve ever had, but it was worth it: full, hearty and properly filled. As Phil said, crêpes are especially hard to find gluten-free because of cross-contamination, so finding one in Alaska of all places was a real win.

Totem poles and the Totem Heritage Center

On our first visit we went to the Totem Heritage Center, and if you’re interested in the region’s Indigenous culture, it’s a great one. Follow the creek upstream past Creek Street for 10 to 15 minutes and you leave the tourist area behind for a lovely nature trail, with the Heritage Center at the top. You can also buy a ticket that pairs it with the town’s other heritage museum, the Tongass Historical Museum.

Even if you don’t go inside, there are beautiful totem poles all around town, and they’re well worth stopping for.

Creek Street: the most Ketchikan thing about Ketchikan

Creek Street is the whole reason Ketchikan feels different from other Alaska ports. The boardwalk is built on wooden pilings straight over the creek. For about 50 years, from 1903 right up to 1954, it was the town’s red-light district, and those pretty little houses were brothels.

The most famous belonged to a woman called Dolly Arthur, and Dolly’s House is now a museum. We didn’t go in this time, but it’s worth knowing about because it’s the real backbone of frontier Alaska. This was a proper boom town with a properly rowdy history.

And it got rowdier. During Prohibition, Creek Street was full of speakeasies and rum runners. Smugglers would bring moonshine in by boat at high tide and pass it up through trapdoors in the floors of these very buildings.

Look for the little path winding up behind the houses. It’s the Married Man’s Trail, and it’s exactly what it sounds like: a discreet back route gentlemen used to slip in and out unseen. It was also a handy escape route whenever the police came knocking. There’s a local saying that Creek Street is where both the men and the salmon came upstream to spawn.

Salmon tip: Creek Street is one of the best spots in town to watch the salmon run. That’s usually around June and July, though it varies by season. At peak time, the creek is absolutely heaving with them.

Coffee and a souvenir

After Creek Street, a few light showers sent us looking for coffee. Once again we were led by gluten-free recommendations, and Local Grounds came out on top. It was a great spot to warm up.

It’s also become a bit of a thing on our trips that I buy a sticker in every port we visit. Ketchikan’s came from here.

The truth about port shopping

You won’t be short of shops in any Alaska port. There are outlet stores, local stores and clearance racks, and plenty of places selling hiking and waterproof gear. If you’ve forgotten something, you’ll be able to buy it without a problem.

You also won’t be short of big jewellery and diamond chains. They work hand in hand with the cruise lines: you can even use a Princess Medallion to pay in some of them. Each to their own: if you enjoy buying diamonds on holiday, go for it. Just know they’re often the same brands you’ll find on board, so they’re not as exclusive as they’re made out to be.

For proper Alaska souvenirs, our favourite is Tongass Trading Company:

  • It’s right on the waterfront, between the cruise berths, so you can’t miss it.
  • It’s massive, and sells anything and everything Alaska-branded: baby clothes, kids’ toys, pin badges and magnets.
  • It also stocks toiletries, medicines and drinks, which is handy for stocking up before you head back on board instead of paying ship prices.

A few doors along the waterfront there’s a smaller gift shop where we bought our baubles and mementos on our first visit. It has more premium, nicer-looking pieces, Alaska-themed mystery boxes (I’m a sucker for a mystery box), and even an Alaska-themed nativity scene. I kind of wanted it.

One honest observation: this time, far more of the shops seemed to sell the same things. Once you’ve been in one, you’ve kind of been in all of them. Each store has a few unique pieces, but it’s worth knowing before you spend your whole day browsing.

The Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show

If it’s your first time in Ketchikan, I think the Lumberjack Show is a must-do. It’s right in the middle of downtown. Last time we left it too late and it was fully booked, so this time we booked the moment it opened.

We booked through Virgin Voyages. That meant we just scanned our Bands at the entrance, had our own covered seating area (reassuring in Alaska’s weather) and got a voucher for two drinks each.

You’re not allowed to film during the show. I get it, because half the fun is being there in the moment. It’s camp, high-energy and a lot of fun. The story is built around the old rivalry between Canadian and American lumberjacks, and some of the stunts are seriously impressive.

Good to know: allow about two hours. Tickets were around $50 per person when we booked. We did the very last show, which left us 30 minutes to get back to the ship, so check your all-aboard time.

What to pack for Ketchikan

We sailed at the very start of the season in May. It felt more mild than cold, but if you’re out in it for a long time, it does start to feel chilly, and the rain is what makes it feel colder than it is. Pack:

  • A warm layer (I lived in a jumper and a woolly hat)
  • A waterproof jacket, because Ketchikan is famous for rain
  • Comfortable walking shoes, because you’ll do a lot of walking

Is Ketchikan worth getting off the ship for?

Absolutely. It’s still one of my favourite ports in Alaska. It’s so easy to get around, and everything is packed into a short walk from the ship: frontier history, Indigenous culture, great food and one of the most fun shows in Alaska. You really don’t need a big excursion to have a brilliant day.

This was one stop on our Virgin Voyages Alaska trip, which started with two nights in Vancouver. Next on our Brilliant Lady sailing was Sitka: here’s our Sitka port guide. If you’re new to Alaska, start with our first-time guide to cruising Alaska, read our full Virgin Voyages Alaska review, and see our ultimate guide to Virgin Voyages.

FAQs

Can you walk from the cruise ship into Ketchikan? Yes. The cruise berths sit right on the edge of downtown, so Creek Street, the shops and the Lumberjack Show are all a few minutes’ walk from the ship.

Do you need to book an excursion in Ketchikan? No. Ketchikan is one of the easiest Alaska ports to explore on your own. If you do want a tour, there are excursion desks on the quayside, or you can book through your cruise line for extra peace of mind.

How long is the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show? Allow about two hours. It’s popular, so book as early as you can, and check your all-aboard time if you choose the last show.

When can you see salmon in Ketchikan? Usually around June and July, though it varies by season. Creek Street is one of the best places in town to watch them.

Where can you get gluten-free food in Ketchikan? We had brilliant gluten-free crêpes at Alaska Crêpe Co, and Local Grounds was a great gluten-free-friendly coffee stop.

Plan it with us

Phil and I are award-winning travel specialists and Virgin Voyages First Mates, and we’d love to help you plan your Alaska cruise. Book Virgin Voyages with us and you’ll get our bonus Sailor Loot as a thank you. Call 07307 602030, email hello@magical-traveller.com or get in touch.